As the Cambodia opens up to tourism, more and more of the services available are tourist-friendly. However, take a look at the tips below and remember that the country is still developing. It still can be difficult to communicate in some places, and in the countryside there are far fewer people who can speak English.

Another way to get into Cambodia is by road. From Thailand, you can take the bus from Bangkok up to the Cambodian border at Aranya Prathet/Poipet. This takes around five hours. At the border, after going through immigration, you can find vehicles for hire to take you to Siem Reap over a very bumpy road. You need to bargain and shop around for prices.

Bus from Bangkok stops at the Golden Gate of Aranya Prathet (Poi Pet).

Also from Thailand, you can come through Trad to Koh Kong. Take a bus from Bangkok to Trad, then cross the border at Haad Lek into Koh Kong on the Cambodian side. From Koh Kong, you can take a boat over to Sihanoukville, or a taxi up to Phnom Penh (this last is not popular as the road is in a bad state and the trip takes a long time).

From Vietnam, you can come by bus from Ho Chi Minh City into Phnom Penh. This is incredibly easy and very cheap, taking about six hours and costing from US$6. Alternatively, you can hire a taxi to take you all the way there, or take the boat through Chau Doc and up the Mekong: this is an interesting way to get from one capital to the other.

The northern border with Laos is sometimes open. This is the adventurous travelers’ route, and it is pretty remote and difficult to access. You need to ask around before you decide to go this way, as regulations change and you might find yourself stranded.

Cambodia's border gate at the Cambodia-Thailand Border.

Bargaining is common – and if you can keep a good sense of humor, do try it. The Khmers treat it as fun, and it’s a pleasure to start a relationship with someone through this, particularly if you try out a few words in Khmer. But remember that it is not only part of the culture, but that it is also supposed to be good-humored – losing your temper or thinking someone is cheating you is besides the point and will be counterproductive!

Health
It is not obligatory to have any vaccinations before arriving, but it is really sensible to be inoculated against tetanus, polio, typhoid and hepatitis A and B; if you are staying a long time and in the rainy season, you could also have vaccinations against Japanese encephalitis and rabies: ask your doctor for advice.

Take precautions against mosquitoes: dengue fever is common and malaria is prevalent in the countryside. Drink only water from bottles with a firm seal; if you fall victim to the common diarrhea, drink plenty of fluids and rehydration salts. If it does not go away in three days, see a doctor. Be extremely aware of HIV/AIDS issues: the disease is on the rise in Cambodia. If you need to see a doctor, there are a number of international clinics and pharmacies around the bigger towns.

Landmines are no longer the big threat that they used to be, although be extremely careful and think sensibly if you are off the beaten track. Only follow well worn paths and do not wonder off into the wilds, even if you are answering a call of nature.

Security
Cambodia is no longer the haven of danger that its old reputation suggested. However, it pays to be careful, particularly at night. Do not take your passport or large sums of money out with you: bag/phone/camera theft is common, and motorbikes and motodops are not uncommonly held up in the street. Don’t be one of the statistics who say that it has never happened to them; experience has shown that these are the first to fall victim.

Guns are all too common in Cambodia now, and there is a youth drug culture which is spiraling worryingly. Don’t be alarmed, but do not walk alone at night, and take motodops whom you already know or who are known to the establishment you are visiting.

If you have any bad encounters, you can go to the tourist police or check with your embassy. This may not be a great experience: often, officers do not speak English and you may have to pay. However, if you are trying to claim on insurance, you can get the necessary paperwork pushed through.

Most countries are represented in embassies in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Find out where your embassy is before you go.

For more information
For more information on Cambodia, there are a number of sources. There are plenty of books available on the history of the country, especially by the Cambodian specialist David Chandler. The Killing Fields remains the most widely seen movie of the Pol Pot era, and there are more and more heart-wrenching accounts of the genocides available written by survivors.

In Cambodia itself, you can read the English language Cambodia Daily and the Phnom Penh Post, or the French Cambodge Soir; there are also Chinese language newspapers. Catch up on the news on the BBC or CNN, available in some hotel rooms on cable.

For more information on the country itself, you can access websites created by the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism, and your own country government’s foreign offices. These latter also will be able to let you know if there are any difficult situations currently under development within Cambodia.