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Preah Vihear is a fascinating province, and used to be quite unreachable. This is all changing now, with new roads being built, and it is not so difficult to reach the wonderful mountain-top temple of Prasat Preah Vihear on the Thai border, the remote Preah Khan temple, and the jungle-sapped Koh Ker temple, all Angkorian.
 

The evocative ruins of Preah Vihear Temple, located on a dramatic mountaintop.

The province is forested and huge, still very quiet and out of the way. Tourism has not hit yet, so it is not for those who like luxury, but the history and the temples are fabulous. There is still a problem of landmines, as you may see from some signs, so PLEASE do not step off well-worn paths.

 
Getting to Preah Vihear and around
It’s all by road to Tbeng Meanchey, the provincial capital, but this is not difficult any more. Coming from Phnom Penh, take a pick-up in Kompong Thom take 3 hours: the road is dirt but in very good condition. Tbeng Meanchey is tiny and dusty, with very little to do, but it is a pleasant and gentle place to spend a few nights.

You can currently hire motorbikes or cars in Tbeng Meanchey to get around the province; it’s best to get information through your accommodation, as tourism is an industry that is only just starting here and information changes quickly, particularly regarding prices. One of the easiest ways is to come on your own motorbike (hired in Phnom Penh), as you can have some freedom to get around and are not constrained.
 
Sights
It’s the three temples here! Prasat Preah Vihear used to be a nightmare to access, but has a good road all the way there now (although very very quiet: take spares if you are going by motorbike). This does not include the almost vertical ride up the mountain at the end, but the views at this amazing Angkorian monument are quite incredible, well into Thailand and Cambodia.
 

Reaching Preah Vihear remains a pilgrimage for many, as in Angkorian days.

Preah Khan is still difficult to access, a huge laterite and sandstone construction built in the late 12th and early 13th century. The road is still a disaster, and you should ask around before you decide to visit. It is still one of the most fascinating of the Angkorian temples.

Koh Ker is straightforward now: a wide range of abandoned crumbling temples, set in the middle of the jungle, the road from Tbeng Meanchey is good. In addition, tourism in Siem Reap is starting to come this way too, so roads have been built and you can also charter transport from there rather than Tbeng Meanchey.

 
Accommodation & Food
Accommodation is basic here, although it is at least available. This may change, but probably not for the near future. Tourism has not yet taken off so it is a little tricky to get what you want with great ease, although this is sure to improve. There are a couple of Khmer restaurants with English menus, and nothing whatsoever to do in terms of accommodation, apart from having a beer with your dinner.

 

 

The sun goes down over the temple.

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